From “I have a card”
to money in your bKash.
Five steps, start to finish.
You message me
Telegram or Messenger. Tell me the brand, the face value and whether it is an e-code or a physical card.
We agree a rate
I quote today’s rate for that brand and region. Nothing moves until you say yes. No pressure, no haggling games.
You send the card
The code, or clear photos of the physical card. If you have the purchase receipt, send that too — it usually gets you a better rate.
I verify the balance
I check the card is live and unused, on the spot, while you wait. You see the check happen.
You get paid
bKash, Nagad, Rocket or bank transfer — sent immediately after the balance clears. Not tomorrow. Immediately.
Have these five things ready.
1. The brand
Amazon, Apple, Razer Gold, Steam, Google Play — whatever it says on the card or in the email.
2. The region
US, UK, Germany, Canada. If you don’t know, send a photo and I’ll work it out for you.
3. The face value
$25, $100, £50. The number printed on the card or shown in the confirmation email.
4. E-code or physical
A code that arrived by email, or a plastic card you are holding in your hand.
5. Receipt, if you have one
The purchase confirmation. Optional — but it usually raises what I can pay you.
Don’t have it all?
Message me anyway. A photo of the card is usually enough for me to fill in the rest.
How long each part actually takes.
| Stage | Typical time | What can slow it down |
|---|---|---|
| First reply from me | Minutes | Late night, or I’m mid-deal with someone else. You’ll still get a reply. |
| Quoting your rate | 1–5 min | An unusual brand or region I need to check the market on. |
| Verifying the balance | 2–10 min | Physical cards, unusual denominations, or a brand whose checker is slow that day. |
| Payment reaching you | Immediate | bKash or Nagad network issues. Bank transfers can take longer outside banking hours. |
A trader who goes quiet mid-deal is the single biggest warning sign in this business. I would much rather you chased me than sat there worrying.
The three things that actually go wrong.
Common, and usually nobody’s fault — the sender didn’t say. The rate changes to match the real region. You are free to walk away at that point; I won’t hold your code.
Sometimes a card was partly spent, or already redeemed by whoever sent it. I’ll show you the check result. If it’s dead, the deal simply doesn’t happen — I don’t keep a dead code and I don’t charge you for the check.
If a card was bought with stolen payment details, it gets reversed later and whoever is holding it loses. If I spot the signs I decline the deal and tell you why. This is the one case where I will not proceed no matter how good the price is.